West14th Steakhouse

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Winner of the What’s On 2013 Award for “Best Steakhouse and Grill in Dubai”.

West 14th suggests that it stands for everything ‘New York Prime’. And, it does a very good job at living up to this vision. A ranch in Nebraska provides the US Black Angus beef that is cut-to-order, by Mr West, the resident butcher at West 14th the New York Grill and Bar at the Oceana Beach Club on The Palm Jumeirah.

Indeed, the contemporary, open-plan loft-inspired layout of the restaurant means that Mr West struts his stuff in full view of diners, up to 140 when the house is full. A specially-designed rack holds his tools in place, many of which look decidedly like weapons. However, having seen Mr West at work, his approach is more artist than warlord.

His brigade is sizeable both front-and back-of-house. Kitchen-side the atmosphere is everything a good American movie depicts. It is bustling, sizzling, steamy, interactive, passionate, always professional. With the collective energy of a tribe of New York buskers focussed on top-performance whatever the weather, the hierarchy of chefs chop, steam and grill away in a salsa-like rhythm, somehow never missing a beat between them.

At its core, West 14th is a steak house. But, fish-a-plenty and fresh from market also waits for a grilling, as does free-range chicken, and other choices depending on the day of the week.

And, if you prefer to think of cows left to graze in one of the nine Nebraskan pastures, the West 14th menu extends way beyond meat-based grills. In testament to West 14th’s New Yorker embrace of neighbourhood, every palate is a friend at West 14th. Vegetables – often home grown in Dubai, are treated to a wondrous array of preparation styles.

The restaurant is vast, oozing a feeling of space without loosing any of the inviting club-like atmosphere set to become as ingrained as the West 14th ‘stamp’ that is ‘burnt’ into much of the collateral, from wooden chopping boards, through to the striking crockery and tasteful uniforms.

West 14th looks west over the Arabian Gulf and is bathed in a light, bright yet comforting hue created by the huge expanse of floor to beam windows. On second take, one notices that black, deep gray and a bold red features in much of the interior materials. The trio manage to draw upon their light side and as each day is turned into night the interior spec transforms the day-time grill into a chic restaurant and bar.

Caipirinhas take centre stage on the latter. They come in a variety of mocktail and cocktail guises. But everything is available, as long as it is great: great wines by the glass, bottle and flight, new-world spirits, fresh mixers and more.

The bar spills out onto West 14th’s beach side terrace, Marina Beach Bar where a suitably dressed menu and service style takes the floor. Indeed, compelling music is another West 14th signature, and its promise for crisp conversation is a natural for the service team, quickly infusing a hum-drum of interaction at dining tables sized for two to 16.

The verdict: For everything New York Prime, West 14th Grill & Bar does it, and does it well.

West 14th at the Oceana Beach Club on The Palm Jumeirah, open from midday to midnight, seven days a week offering two distinct sittings – for lunch through to 3pm, and dinner from 6pm.

Credit: images of West 14th Steakhouse